Old homestead remains are a great place to take a break. Our good friend, Clyde the Hiking Walrus joined us on this hike in July of 2010.
#10) Mary’s Rock Hike:
MM: 37 on Skyline Drive. Closest Entrance: Skyland.
3.75 Miles Roundtrip.
We liked this hike for a number of reasons. The views are incredible, and there is a short rock scramble at the end, which never fail to appeal to us! Further, this hike takes you past remains of homesteads that existed pre-Skyline Drive. Our whole family really likes history, so encountering it along a trail is always an added bonus. We took our breaks at the remains, discussing what it would be like to actually live in the mountains during that time period. There is some interesting folklore for how Mary’s Rock got it’s name, the most popular being Francis Thornton’s (who owned much of 
the land that now is now Shenandoah National Park) daughter Mary climbed up to the rock and came back down carrying a bear cub under each arm. However, Billy and JJ prefer to think it was named after their Mom Mom! To get to Mary’s Rock hike (if you enter from the Skyline entrance), you will drive directly under the mountain through a tunnel, named appropriately enough….Mary’s Rock Tunnel. It is always a fun ride through the tunnel knowing you are going under a mountain…especially for the kiddos!
We have so much fun hiking with this family that we call ourselves the ‘Good Time Hiking Club’! Here we are at the summit of Spy Rock in September of 2012.
#9) Spy Rock:
Located on VA 56 just outside the town of Montebello, VA. 4 miles Roundtrip.
There is no doubt this hike will move up on our list when we can do it on a clear day. Apparently, the views are spectacular, but
Scaling the final rock scramble to the top of Spy Rock was hard….but lots of fun.
we would not know, because a dense fog and misty rain covered the whole area on the day we visited. Still, it makes our top then list because it is a unique hike with lots of great features. We were initially drawn to the hike because of its name, with its origin being that confederate soldiers used 360 degree view from the top to ‘spy’ on Union Soldiers during the Civil War. Of course, this appealed greatly to Billy and JJ. There are many rocky sections to this hike, but the scramble to get to the top is the most challenging we have ever done. So, it was a great sense of accomplishment to get to the top….even without the view. On top of Spy Rock, there are some standing water pools where we were excited to see a number of tadpoles. We all wonder where those eventual frogs will call home. For the last section of the hike, it follows the Appalachian Trail, and passes along a few ‘unofficial’ campground sites where campers have built upon the experience of others with logs benches surrounding campfires.
The parking area for this hike is at the Montebello State Fish Hatchery, which is a great add-on to the hike. Another great add-on to the hike is the town of Montebello which has a quaint country store and an awesome campground. Spy Rock hike is just a few miles from Crabtree Falls (see #6), so we plan to re-visit this hike in the near future for a camping and multiple hike weekend! We are hoping for a clear day so that Billy and JJ can practice some of their compass skills learned in Cub Scouts. We felt the final rock scramble to the top was a little bit much for J-Wow. We alternated trips to the top with sticking with her. Another dog was at the top, so it can be done…..but be cautious.
The rock cropping at the top of Humpback rocks are amazing, and the views are very rewarding. Keep a close eye on the kids while they explore!
#8) Humpback Rocks: MM 6 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Enter off ofI-64 near Waynesboro. Just over 2 Miles Round trip.
This is a perfect hike for families with young children, or inexperienced hikers. It is a short hike (yet pretty steep hike) with a very rewarding view. There are two avenues to the top….one a bit more challenging and rocky, and one a little more circuitous….with the later being a little longer, but overall less challenging. The hike is very well marked on when it is time to diverge into one of the two options. The rock outcropping at the top is gorgeous with amazing views of the Rockfish Gap.
There are a few great add-ons to this hike. Just down the road and across the street, is the Humpback Rocks Mountain Farm. Stop in and explore this farm, representing mountain farms of the nineteenth century. Depending on when you visit, there are living history demonstrations going on for the kids to participate. The last time we were there, Billy and JJ had to go out to the chicken coop to retrieve the eggs! Also in the area is Spring Valley Farms where you can pick your own cherries, as well as Chiles Peach Orchard, which is a pick your own farm with strawberries, peaches, apple, cherries and pumpkins….depending on the time of year. We have paired this hike a few times with a meal at Crozet Pizza. It is one of those local establishments that develop a cult following….that you will just have to experience for yourself to see what the fuss is all about.
#7) Lewis Falls: The trailhead is adjacent to the Big Meadows Ampitheatre. 3.5 Miles Roundtrip. Closest Entrance: Swift Run Gap
Do you prefer a waterfall hike, or do you prefer a summit hike with views of the mountains? The great thing about Lewis Falls hike is that you get both! The trail ends at the top of the waterfall, so you look down upon the waterfall….but also out into a beautiful vista. Now, the downside: It is a waterfall hike, so the hard work is on the return (and if you are like me…you focus on how hard the return will be as you head down the mountain!) . There are two areas to view the waterfall, so be sure not to miss the second one….which winds up and around and then eventually across the waterfall pool. On that far side, there is a nice observation deck to sit and relax while taking in the scenery. A word of caution….this whole hike is very rocky. Make sure you are wearing proper footwear. We are partial to Keen sandals…our whole family has a pair, and they came in handy on this hike.
Pack a picnic lunch and some Frisbee for a picnic before or after this hike. The Big Meadows camping/picnic area shares the same parking lot.
The waterfalls from the Lewis Falls observation deck.
The beautiful vista from Lewis Falls
#6) Crabtree Falls: Located on VA 56 just outside the town of Montebello, VA. 4.7 Miles Roundtrip.
Because Crabtree Falls are considered ‘the tallest waterfalls east of the Mississippi’, this is a must do for Virginia hikers. It makes most of the top ten lists of Virginia Hikes…including ours! Since it is so popular: it is very well maintained, with lots of steps and guard rails, and bridges. The majority of the hike follows the Tye River which provides beautiful scenery throughout, as well as a backdrop of soothing water from bumbling brooks. Expect a lot of company on this hike, due to its popularity! It is also quite sobering to see all the signs that warn hikers to stay off the rocks on the waterfalls. There have been over two dozen deaths on this hike for those not heading this warning…including one that had happened just the day before we did the hike.
What a precious picture….JJ getting a lift from Mickey! We did this hike when the kids were very young, and while JJ was areal trooper, he ended up needing to be carried out by Mickey.
A great picture of Billy and JJ from October, 2008 on Blackrock Summit. This picture has been enlarged and framed for our house!
#5) Blackrock Summit –MM 85 off of Skyline Drive. Closest Entrance: Swift Run Gap 1.5 Miles Roundtrip This is a short walk into the woods to an amazing 360 degree view atop a large rock cropping. Despite JJ almost stepping on a Copperhead; and then a subsequent panic attack by Minnie, this is a hike we repeat each year. It is great to see this hike in all season. The summit is one big rocky playground, which is popular with everyone we know who has done this hike. The rocks are just so fun for the boys to climb on…..and there is no where else we have found that has such a rewarding view for such little work. Massanutten Peak stands out in the distance, as well as the town of Elkton.
Along with the adventure of climbing the rocks, you might be interested in a little history and geology lesson. First the history: During the Revolutionary War, Thomas Jefferson, then the Virginia Governor, had the great seal of Virginia hidden in a cave near Blackrock until the war’s end to ensure its safety. Further back in history, this rock cropping is believed to have been formed by the collapse of a volcano, making it a popular place for Geologist to study.
The walk into the rock area is less than a mile….and basically flat. There is no set way up the rocks…..it is an explore at your own whim (and risk!) kind of place. It is also possible to stay on a path and go around the rocks, just to enjoy the view. This is a great hike for families with young kids and beginning hikers. We would avoid taking J-Wow to Blackrock Summit. It is possible to keep dogs at the base and alternate climbing the rocks….but who wants to miss out on all the fun?
A gorgeous summer view off of Blackrock Summit
#4) Doyles River Falls: MM 81 on Skyline Drive. Closest Entrance: Swift Run Gap 4.0 Miles Roundtrip
Doyles River Falls….or the Rainforest?
In our humble opinion, Doyles River Falls boasts the most beautiful waterfall we have seen on any of our hikes. It felt like had been transported to the rainforest as we sat and enjoyed the falls. This hike can be done as a loop with Jones Run, seeing more waterfalls along the way, totaling around seven miles. But, as we like to keep our hikes under 5 miles with the boys, we did an out and back to this waterfall, which is considered ‘the lower falls’ of the combined hike.
Doyles River has a few neat features in addition to the final reward of its waterfall. Less than a mile into the hike, is the Doyles River Cabin, which is maintained and rented by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC). Apparently there are a number of cabins such as these that can be rented for a small fee all along the AT. We ventured close enough for a view, but since the cabin was obviously occupied at the time of our hike, we did not want to overstep our boundaries, and settled for a long range view, but enough to know…. what a great option for a weekend get-away. Doyles River falls also has a number of swimmin’ holes along the route, which of course Billy and JJ and J-Wow enjoy! Because this is a waterfall hike, the hard part is the uphill return….and this was a difficult one to complete. But, one we highly recommend.
#3) Rose River Loop: MM 81 on Skyline Drive. Closest Entrance: Swift Run Gap 5.8 Miles
We found this hike by happenstance, and were so glad we did. The beauty of this hike blew us away. It was a constant up and down, over and around hike. There are cascades and waterfalls galore…too many to count, as you follow the river practically the whole time. There was never a chance to get bored, as the terrain was constantly changing, as was the vegetation..areas of dense trees, sections of ferns and then more open areas just around the next bend. Truly, an amazing hike! It was a little longer of a hike than we thought (in our experience, most hikes are a bit longer than what is often published….just recently we have taken to running a GPS to verify this hypothesis of ours). At one point, JJ exclaimed, ‘You have tricked me….we are really doing a marathon!’ But, pretty soon after that, we found an amazing swimming hole and he was refreshed!
A family portrait at the base of one of the many waterfalls along Rose River Loop.
Less than a half mile from the end of Rose River loop, there is a trail spur that leads to Dark Hollow Falls. Traffic really picks up at the section, as many people make the short walk from Big Meadows down to see those falls.
It was no sooner that we passed this section when we encountered a fellow hiker with big news: A bear was up ahead! And, indeed there was. This marks the third time we have seen a bear on one of our hikes. We had a pretty humorous interaction with this said hiker, that will remain a family joke for sometime! He was a bit agitated and starting giving us advice on how to handle our dilemma. Needless to say, it was against everything we had ever heard before. After a few minutes pause, Mickey charged ahead with our brave hiking dog J-Wow; and Minnie and the boys followed shortly behind. We left our friend as he was frantically trying to call the park rangers, who he just knew would come and tranquilize (and remove) the bear. In no way do we mean to trivialize a bear encounter on the trail. Seeing a bear is alternately exhilarating and terrifying….your heart literally beats out of your chest. Then, as he retreats into the woods, you frantically try to snap a picture with shaking fingers, so you can back up the great story to tell you friends at school the next day….or post as proof on your blog:)
If you encounter a bear on a hike, stay calm. Get together in a group and try and look LARGE. As our friend in the yellow shirt reminded us, ‘You cannot out run a bear, cause they run like 30 miles per hour’. Do not agitate a bear by trying to get a closer look….and settle for a blurry, far away picture!
Camp Rapidan hike is one you can get wet on….lots of cascades, waterfalls, river crossings and swimmin’ holes!
#2) Camp Rapidian Hike: MM 53 on Skyline Drive. (Park at Milam Gap) Closest Entrance: Swift Run Gap 4.0 Miles
Mickey’s love of history has had him wanting to do this hike for years. There are two places to start this hike, and until recently, we had only known about taking the trail from Big Meadows which is close to a 8 mile hike. Luckily in our research, we found this alternate (and shorter) route, since we like to keep our family hikes under 5 miles. In addition to beautiful scenery, river crossings, small waterfalls and swimming holes, Camp Rapidian hike is replete in history.
Camp Rapidian was the vacation home of President Herbert Hoover from 1929 to 1933. It is the precursor to Camp David, the current Presidential retreat. The camp is in a gorgeous setting, surrounded by mountain streams, as President Hoover was an avid fisherman. Many of the buildings are still standing and have been preserved, and are open at times for visitors. There is also a large section of remains of other buildings with placards and information to how things once were. We were lucky enough to visit on day when a ranger was manning the station. A PHD candidate in history, he was volunteering for the summer with the National Park Service, and he was a vat of knowledge. We learned so much about President Hoover and his vision for the camp, and its history. Much of the narrative also intertwined with the early days of Skyline Drive and the Shenandoah National Park.
We combined this hike with a camping weekend at Loft Mountain, just a few miles down Skyline Drive. As a word of caution, we have had friends who did this hike after a strong rain, and did not fair as well. Because it follows the river, hiking conditions can change with the weather.
Outside the main residence at Camp Rapidian, President Hoover’s retreat. A great mix of history and scenery
Billy tackling the Bearfence rocks in 2009. He was 6, and JJ was 4 when we first discovered our most favorite hike.
1) Bear Fence MM 56 on Skyline Drive. Closest Entrance: Swift Gap. 1.5 miles roundtrip
Our unanimous choice for best hike. We have taken a number of friends on this hike, and they all agree. It is a must do! Parents love it, kids love it…but unfortunately it is not a good hike for dogs, which is its only downside. The majority of this hike is a rock scramble, so while it is short…..it is also quite challenging. Next to Old Rag, Bearfence has the longest rock section of any hike in the park…we have actually heard it refereed to as ‘Baby Old Rag’.
Yes, that really is the trail….up and over the rocks. Follow the white blaze!
Once at the top of Bearfence, you are treated to 360 Panoramic Views. Since we do this hike multiple times per year, we have had to privileged to witness its glory in many different weather patterns. Once we were enjoying the beautiful view and saw a thunderstorm rolling in far in the distance. We have also seen a bear and her cub on this hike (what an experience) as well as deer just sitting on the trail….but luckily never any snakes! Young children can do this hike, but it is inherently dangerous. Take it slow and make sure children are focusing and being good listeners. Be cautious….and everyone can share in a great adventure!
Enjoying the misty view from Bearfence
NOTE: These 10 hikes represent ones we have done as a family. They are all appropriate for kids and dogs (unless otherwise noted). For adults and families with kids over 12, we also recommend Old Rage and McAfee Knob hikes….which Mickey and Minnie have completed without the boys, but hope to share in the experience again with Billy and JJ when they are older.
Mickey and Minnie on McAfee Knob.
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