Bear Den Mountain (a mile on the AT)

The white blazes mark the way.

MM: 102.1 on Skyline Drive.  Closest Entrance: Rockfish Gap

1.5 Miles Roundtrip. (to the first vista, with options to continue further on the AT)

Another unseasonably warm day got us out on the trail on ‘Thanksgiving Eve.  And by the trail, I do mean THE TRAIL….the AT (Appalachian Trail).  We followed it all the way  up Bear Den Mountain, then retraced our steps back down.  In hikers lingo, this short of a hike is refereed to  as a ‘leg stretcher!’  It would be a nice hike to try for novice hikers, and young kids.  It is on the shorter side, but with a challenging climb, and varied scenery, it is a pleasant endeavor.   Bear Den Mountain  is located at the Beagle’s Gap area of Skyline Drive, just a few miles up from the Rockfish Gap entrance.  This is our first foray into this section of the park, and it is an area we plan on becoming more familiar with in the spring.

Skyline Drive cuts a meadow in half at Beagle Gap. This is the entrance to Bear Den Mountain Hike and a small fraction of the Appalachian Trail.

These towers are probably a bit of a culture shock as thru-hikers encounter them on the AT…..a little slice of modern civilization.

Bear  Den Mountain begins in an open meadow and hiking uphill to an overlook that is shared by  radio installation towers, used primarily for state police communications.   It has some interesting features (besides following the AT), and apparently with the open meadow and an abundance of berry bushes, bear sightings are quite common here (thus the name)!   You could continue on the AT further (it goes to Maine, you know!) or just hang around and explore the area.  The boys really enjoyed doing just that….they spent a lot of time nosing around the towers, trying to find a over/under the fence so they could climb the towers (and by boys, I do not mean just Billy and JJ….Mickey actually was leading their expedition!)  J-Wow and I preferred checking out these tractor seats strategically placed to take in the view (at one time, it was likely a great one….but is now pretty obstructed by the trees).  Nonetheless, the tractors provided a nice spot to sit and enjoy my spice drops snack (those, twizzlers and gummy bears are often our go to energy source on hikes if we don’t take the time to make trail mix).

Many thru hikers mention these tractor seats at the top of Bear Den mountain in their journals. It was fun to sit in them for a moment and experience some of the folklore of the AT. It is hard to imagine being excited about these rusted out old things….but then after hiking hundreds of miles, they would provide a nice respite!

As I remained on my perch,  I wondered about all the AT trail thru-hikers who had been in my very spot.  (The tractor seats are an often mentioned bit of lore on the trail.  Many hikers mention them in their journals, and document them in pictures).

We are not thru-hikers, but wanted a picture on the tractor seats nonetheless!

I have great reverence for the Appalachian Trail….for its existence, for its culture and for those who travel it.   The trail is currently 2,181 miles long and runs from Georgia to Maine.  Traditional thru-hikers take 5-7 months to complete the journey.  Mostly they camp in the woods and survive with what they carry with them, in the form of food, equipment and inspiration.  Along the way, they form a community with much folklore and rituals that I am increasingly curious about.

I  find those who attempt to thru hike the AT awe-inspiring, and yet if I were to be honest….a bit crazy!   And those who complete it (the numbers vary….but only about a quarter of average 2,000 attempts end in success) simply amaze me, and alternately confound me.   I have read a few memoir accounts and am just astounded at their resilience and resourcefulness.  In  good weather and optimal conditions, I can see the draw…but in reality, those days are few and far between for them.  Much of their journey is marked by rain and snow and bug bites and cold and then blistering sun (and feet) and sleeping on the hard forest floor….or if they are lucky in an AT shelter with rodents and roommates.   I value my creature comforts too much to ever ponder myself in such a situation.  However,  I tip my hat to those who take on such a challenge because they work through all of that outward stuff for inner growth as their reward!    Over the years, we have run into a handful of thru-hikers….they are pretty recognizable with their big packs, scruffy bears, and not showered in a number of days look (and sometimes smell).  It is always a real treat to encounter them on the trail, and share a few words on their journey thus far, and hopefully give them a bit of encouragement to continue putting one foot in front of the other toward Maine (or Georgia, whichever way they are headed).

Without a tree in the vicinity, the AT is marked by a white blaze on the ground.  It would be hard to get lost on the AT, for these blazes show up ever 100 yards or so.

Despite never having the desire or wherewithal to handle the whole trail, I am so thankful for its existence, and enjoy our ‘short’ jaunts on the trail.  And, I seem to have developed  an emotional attachment to the white blazes that adorn the AT.  I just love them!  These 2×6 white rectangles lead hikers the entire path, appearing every 100 or so yards on trees  and rocks and whatever is available to mark the way.  The entire trail!  Not only did they need to be placed there in the first place, but I am sure they need to be repainted and adjusted constantly.  In addition there are about 250 huts along the trail that are roughly a days hike apart.  All of which, including trail maintenance is made possible by some 200,000 volunteer hours.  I like this excerpt from the introduction of  a book I just read, Becoming Odyssa(one I highly recommend) about thru-hiker, Jennifer Pharr Davis:

“The Appalachian Trail is a simple, slender thread of individual freedom flowing from Springer Mountain in Northern Georgia and Katahdin in Central Maine.  That such a footpath even exists in our modern cyber world is a testament to the visionary who conceived it in the early twentieth century and the thousand of volunteer trail builders working tirelessly over the last eight decades, along with the dedicated trail maintainers today.”

Many of our hikes over the years intersect the AT, a few like this one follow a miniscule section of the path for its entirety.  It never gets old for me to see a white blaze or the AT sign, and whenever we are on or around the AT, I feel a special kinship to the trail.  We have some plans for the future that involve exploring other regions of the trail, and visiting some of the ‘trail towns’ along the way that are the source for much folklore and ‘trail magic’.  And, maybe just maybe, volunteer as a family to refresh the paint on the blazes!  We will keep you posted on those travels, right here on Virginia Vines and Trails!

Rantings (out of 5) for South River Hike: 3.6

JJ –5 (The length was perfect, and I liked climbing the rocks off to the side and the tractor seats were pretty cool)

Billy –5 (If we can go back without mom, we can climb the towers.  And I liked the landscape because it changed a lot.)

Minnie -2.5   (I am glad to have experienced it, but it did not make my ‘to do again list’.)

Mickey – 3 (I liked climbing the towers….and I do think that area sees lots of bears, which is cool!

J-Wow – 2.5 (no stream crossings, and just a few rocks to explore, but lots of new sniffs.)

South River Falls Hike

MM: 37 on Skyline Drive.  Closest Entrance: Swift Run Gap

3.6 Miles Roundtrip.

The falls

Billy and JJ surveying the scene.

Buoyed by an unseasonably warm day, and anchored by new hiking socks for the whole family (local friends….Costco currently has some great wool trail socks in all sizes that are awesome, and at a great price!!!), we were thrilled to get out and hike South River Falls on Sunday.  It is not always a given to be able to hike late in the season, especially on Skyline Drive.  In fact, after Hurricane Sandy swept through, and dropped snow (and apparently lots of trees) in our mountains, we feared our hiking trips might be shelved until the spring.  But, as luck would have it, most of that snow has melted and our hiking aspirations were game on!

South River Falls is about the closest hike to the Swift Run Gap entrance.  Church and family obligations got us a late start on the day, then combined with the early dusk we now get from the time change, this hike was initially picked out of convenience, and not necessarily enthusiasm (at the time).    We had done this hike once before in 2009, and I have always had mixed memories of the experience. On the one hand, we hiked it with Mickey’s bachelor-days roommate and his young family, so it was a lot of fun to be with them.  I think it was the first hike we ever did with another family, and I remember really enjoying seeing all of our little guys embrace the activity.  But, on the other hand, I remember this hike as being very HARD….and at various times sharing the duties of carrying the boys up the hill.  (In fact, Mickey’s roommate ended up hauling both his boys…one in a backpack and the other on front.  But, he is a fireman, so he was up for the challenge!)  Further, faithful readers of this blog will know that waterfall hikes are usually not my ‘fave’.  The waterfalls themselves are always delightful, but the hard work is on the return, and I typically spend the descent dreading the ascent, and thus do not spend enough time enjoying the hike in the presence…and for its presents.  I blame it on my Type A personality.

Mickey and and an old roommate with their hiking protegees on South River Falls in 2009.

I am happy to report that the reality of this hike ended up being far better than my preconceived notions.  It is challenging, but very doable.  Our kids are older and pretty capable hikers now (but also heavier….I do not think we could carry them now if we tried).   And we are in general in better shape.  Our previous attempt at South River was very pre-running phase, still very much in gained a lot of weight from the pregnancy stage!!!  I am also happy to report that my attempts at getting my type A personality in check are working.  I thoroughly enjoyed the ups and downs of this hike.  Seeing progress is always good.

Too bad the water was so cold….Billy, JJ and J-Wow would have loved to played around in the stream. We encountered it all throughout the hike.   And even when we did not see it, we heard it’s soothing flow.  We will have to come back in the summer for a dip!

On this day, there were a number of variables that went in South River Falls’ favor.  Much of the hike follows a stream, crossing it a few times, but mostly meandering alongside it throughout.  Because of a lot of recent rain (and melted snow), we encountered quite the bubbling brook.  And, with the leaves almost completely off the trees, the sound carried beautifully in the woods, making our experience in the woods especially relaxing.    Since we have rarely hiked this far into the season, it was odd to see the trees bare.  It was actually quite beautiful with the gorgeous late afternoon lighting we had from the sun.   Plus, a major benefit to hiking after a few frosts:  No threat of snakes!!!  I was relaxed from the beginning.  (They really do hibernate, unlike bears.  But, I will address that later in the post.)  The falls themselves were quite nice…on par for what we have seen elsewhere in the Blue Ridge.    We just hiked to the observation area…..to get to the bottom of the falls, the hike continues down the mountain about another 1/3 of a mile.  But, we wanted to beat the coming dusk.  So, we enjoyed our cracker jacks while contemplating the falls for a spell, then headed back up the way we came.

Since starting this blog, I have begun to pose a question to myself (and sometimes the family) as we hike,  so as to have something to write about here. On South River Falls , it was simple….’Why do you like hiking’?

JJ – I like nature, I like being in the woods.  This hike is so peaceful (yes, my sweet little guy said that…a few times) I like seeing new things, and I like to exercise because it makes you stronger.  And there are always lots of great trees to hike.

Billy – I like to prepare for things.  I like being in the wilderness.  I like mountains.  It is a challenge.

Mickey – The serenity.   And I like sharing a hobby with the whole family

My reasons for liking to hike are really a combination of all of the above answers.  Much of them, I have already written about: I admittedly love the mountains.  I am awed by their majesty.  I relish the challenge of hiking to a destination and being rewarded with a summit view or a beautiful waterfall.  Tackling a rock scramble is always a good time.  I enjoy the people we encounter on the trails; who offer a friendly greeting, a report of the trail, and sometimes a more lengthy conversation about where people are from, or some other common connection.  Regardless of what is experienced on the trail, it is always worthwhile.

J-Wow met some friends on the trail. These were awesome dogs. When we came upon them, they were off their leash. Immediately after encountering us, they ran back to their owners to get on leash. Amazing. J-Wow could learn a thing or two about obedience from them! Otherwise, she is simply perfect!

The best family time I know is hiking (I guess it is good we all like it!)  On the trail, we are really together.  There is no extracurricular activity to run off towards, no laundry to fold, no homework to do, no phone to answer, no tv show to watch,  no e-mail to check…..no facebook status to update (no phone service up there, so it is not a possibility)!  We are THERE with each other.

As you walk, it happens naturally that you pair up with another person for a while, and then there are times the whole group is together, and then with the progression, you pair off with someone else.   No matter who you are with, the woods just seem to encourage the flow of conversation.  It is easy and varied.  Sometimes covering big events, or major stresses, and sometimes just touching on the simple, funny or passing observation.  But, it is always worthwhile.   You can really get to KNOW a person on the trail, even if its someone you already KNOW really well (like your kids and your husband!).  Out there you let go of your expectations for each other and see that person as they really are, without labels or assumptions, or other filters.  And these experiences form bonds.   So, above all…what I like about hiking is the strength it gives to our family.  Not just the physical kind, though that is a bonus.  But the time together, the memories made and the ties we bind.  Times like these remind me to be thankful for all I have.  Ultimately, hikes leave me feeling quite blessed that this family is mine!

This thought takes me back to an incident in high school.  A teacher of mine had a random introduction to my dad outside of school.  Upon finding out me as a connection, they obviously both sang my virtues (as would be the case in most such meetings, whether those virtues were true or not!!!!).  Upon hearing my teachers comments, my dad said, ‘Yes, not only do I love her as she is my daughter, but I also really like her’.  Said teacher thought that was a most wonderful compliment, and of course reported it back to me.  I have always remembered that compliment, and now I am blessed with the same feelings about my boys.   Sure we have our days….like when they fight about who gets what Gatorade color, or whose turn it is to feed the dog, or when they freak out because they have no clean socks…..only to find out big wads of dirty ones are stuffed under their bed!  In those, and a myriad of other moments, I love them only as a mother can.  In our better moments, however, I have this thought  flashing in my head:  ‘I like these guys….I really do like these guys!”  Not because they are my kids, but because of the neat person each is developing into being.  Those flashes happen on hikes….a lot.

Billy’s current obsession is the TV show, ‘Doomsday Preppers’.  After filling us in on the recent episode he watched, much of our hike conversation centered on how our family would survive such a scenario.  We all decided that the South River Falls area would be our ‘bug out location‘ (yep, that really is proper Doomsday Prepper lingo!!).  There is a water source, plenty of supplies (and rock faces) for shelter, and JJ figured it would be pretty easy to learn to hunt (he would take over that duty, as soon has he fashioned himself a bow and arrow, from scratch of course!)  Last, but certainly of much importance, the area provided much in the way of interest for J-Wow!

J-Wow and Minnie posing in the exact spot where we would head…if we were Doomsday Preppers!

We all enjoyed making our plans together.  I am not sure we would ever get around to such conversations in our day-to-day life.  Through our conversation, I also found some new insightful into my boys.    And it magnified something I already knew:  they both have a great imagination.

But, in different ways:

Billy takes his hiking very seriously, and always dresses the part. Notice all the survival necessities strapped to his belt. And he always brings a fully loaded backpack filled in anticipation of any situation that might arise.

Billy is practical and observant.  He takes in everything around him and is constantly assessing the situation.  When he has an interest, he fully commits himself to it, studies it and really becomes an expert (for an 9 year old, at least) on his subject of interest.  At this point, I am fully confident that should a doomsday situation arise, Billy would have us in as good of a situation as possible.   Hey, a good bug-out spot is a great beginning!

Here is JJ sliding down the mountain. He likes to go ‘off trail’ sometimes on our hikes. Just like he does in real life, JJ always makes things interesting!

JJ is more whimsical.  He started off picturing a doomsday scenario, but then his thoughts jumped to how the same space should be made into a Disney Theme Park focusing on Tarzan (“because, you know mom, it really is a shame that Disney does not have anything at all to do with those movies.  They should do something with him, don’t you think…instead of so much Princess stuff.”).  Yep, that is my future Disney Imaginer!  I would go to such a park, wouldn’t you?

I like seeing the boys in new and different ways.  In those glimpses, I see them developing into the people God intends them to be.  Those glimpses give me new perspective on the people I already know so well.    It is good to have that knowledge of something I never knew I never knew.  I think it makes me better as their momma.

The trail always lends itself to imagination. Here are Billy and JJ let theirs run wild. Billy in survival mode….JJ in theme park planning!

And speaking of things I never knew:  Bears do not hibernate!  The boys combined their knowledge to explain this to me.  Such instances are happening with more frequency, and it has led me to the realization my kids are smarter than me.  They teach me stuff all the time.  Turns out, bears are dormant.  And in fact, a warmer winter day such as the one we had on our South River Falls hike would have increased our chances to see a bear.   With warmer temps, bears would have come out of their slumber, and would have been active, looking for food to eat before heading back into a dormant stage as the warm snap ended.  Until this knowledge was imparted to me, I had actually let my guard down on the possibility of a bear encounter.  I will not make that mistake again.  I  always enjoy seeing a bear on our hikes, after the fact.  But, being caught unaware would not have been a good thing for my reaction, or my psyche!

So, thus ends another one of our hikes, one that we we greatly recommend.

Rantings (out of 5) for South River Hike:  3.4

JJ – 4

Billy – 4.5

Minnie -4

Mickey – 4

J-Wow – 5 (a top notch for a hike!)

What do you like best about hiking?  If you have not tried one, create an opportunity to check out the wonders of the woods!    Hiking is the perfect backdrop for interesting conversations and important discoveries with, and about your companions.  So, get out there and hike and see what kind of discoveries your trail leads you towards.   Then, let us know how it goes.