Three very unique, and vastly different wineries added up to a wonderful day in the Blue Ridge Mountains
For our most recent wine trip, we headed east of Harrisonburg and traveled in, over, and around the Beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains to three distinctly different Virginia Vineyards. Along the way, we found arguably the best view from a vineyard, a ‘old school’ winery with some very substantial wine, my choice for my most favorite sentimental winery in Virginia. And my new favorite Virginia wine….which happens to be a (gasp!) red blend! Each of these vineyards are off the beaten path so to speak, but close enough together that they can easily be paired together for a fun afternoon of wine tasting.
We began at Moss Vineyards, 1,000 feet above Sea Level with this breathtaking view:
The architectural theme abounds at Moss, from the building….
and tasting notes!
to the wine labels….
Modern and clean are two words that come to mind when describing Moss Vineyards, thus it was not surprising to learn that an architect had designed not only the buildings onsite….but the entire establishment, and built them all by hand. The origins of this vineyard is the most interesting story I have heard yet: The site was picked out via Google earth. The prospective owner wanted a high elevation, north facing slope….and found just what he desired in an old tree farm, all online. The road to the vineyard is a long, winding, bumpy road, and when you get to the property, you see it is fenced off, with very TALL fences. That is because Bears (yes BEARS!) have a tendency to eat the grapes right off the vines. But, you soon realize that a few bumps and bears are a small price to pay for this location location location!!!
I ‘borrowed’ these pictures off the Moss website, to full do justice to the view.
There are seven wines on the Moss tasting list: a Vigonier, a Rose and five reds. Our pourer was very nice and knowledgeable who afforded us a nice treat: a chance to taste their prized 2010 Architettura, which is not usually an offering. This is a wine that they make ‘only on the best years of harvest’, and it was true to it word. It was a bold red blend dominated by the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. The rest of their wines were drinkable, but not memorable. I would say this is proof that their vines are still young and this vineyard will benefit with the aging process. Combine the promise of the wine and the amazing setting, and I think Moss Vineyards is one to watch in the future.
Moss Vineyards has a little bit different of an operating schedule. It is open from 12-5, Friday – Sunday during the months of March-November.
Inside the ‘rustic’ tasting room of Autumn Hill
Our next stop, Autumn Hill Vineyards also has a unique operating schedule. In fact, we were lucky to catch them open. They only open their winery to the public 4 times a year, when they host two open house weekends in the fall, and two in the spring. Otherwise, they can be found pouring their wine at festivals throughout the region, and at select ABC stores in the state. If you get a chance to taste this wine, you will not be disappointed. Top to bottom, they have one of the best wine lists in Virginia.
Autumn Hill has a long, storied history. And, it is one of the oldest, continuously operating vineyards in the state.
Autumn Hill has to be one of the most understated wineries in all of Virginia, at least of the ones we have visited. It is situated in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains….15 miles north of Charlottesville. It is a small, unassuming and yet very welcoming establishment that dates back 30 + years. The owners are a husband and wife team who have been growing grapes and making wine to stay busy in retirement. Their years of experience are evident in the wine they produce. We tasted eight wines, and I liked every single on on the list. I can count on one hand the amount of times I can say that about a tasting.
As I said, we were lucky enough to catch Autumn Hill open on their first spring open house. In addition to the regular tasting, they were offering up a vertical tasting of their Cabernet Franc. Those are always so informative because you can get insight into how different weather patterns affects the final wine product. And off to the side was a nice array of cheese and crackers with suggested wine parings. The owners were on hand, with some family members. And, it seemed like many of the guests knew each other. I imagine fans of Autumn Hill wines are repeat visitors to these open houses. The vibe was somewhat like a neighborhood block party…..with good wine!
Great ‘relics’ of Virginia Wine History decorate the tasting room of Autumn Hill Vineyard
One could almost mistake the tasting room at Autumn for a Virginia Wine Museum. There were medals and trophies going back decades….as well as old festival posters and wine trail maps. I would love to talk with the owners, who also happen to be the winemakers, sometime about the evolution of wine in Virginia. You can tell they definitely make wine for the love of making wine. We learned that last year close to 75% of their crops were lost to frost. But they will not import grapes, as they want to stay true to an estate vineyard and in control of what they produce. So, the 2012 Autumn Hill harvest will only be represented by Chardonnay.
The entrance to the tasting room at Kilwaruen
We finished our day at Kilaurwen Winery in Greene County. This vineyard just popped up on our radar as we researching Moss. I was drawn to the name, thinking it had a Celtic connection, likely Irish. My family has a strong Celtic identity, through our Welsh roots. Wales – Ireland…..close enough for me to want to check it out. It turns out the owners do have Irish connections. But the name Kilaurwen is not Irish at all, but actually a combination of their three daughters names.
The love of family starts with the name at this vineyard and is threaded lovingly throughout. I was raised on strong family roots, and hope if nothing else, that is what I pass along to Billy and JJ. And, having just lost my father this past winter, family ties have taken on a whole new meaning for me. And, that is why it is my sentimental favorite Virginia Vineyard.
Kilaurwen sits in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains
When we pulled up, we were greeted by a man mowing the yard. He promptly turned off the mower and headed inside with us do administer our tasting. He also happened to be the owner, the wine maker and the proud patriarch of his family. As he poured the wine, we heard all about his daughters and grandchildren. In fact, he had turned his property into a winery as sort of a legacy to his family. For twenty years, they have been growing grapes for other Virgina vineyards, and are about four years into making wine of their own. I have heard it said that all great wine starts with the grape, in the actual vineyard. And that it is best to grow a good grape, rather than try and manipulate it in the winery. That is obviously the case here, because this wine is good. It is almost as if the actual making of the wine was a seamless transition for him since he has such a good product. As we went down the list, each wine seemed to get better than the previous one. I tasted Fiesta White, and just knew we had to get a few of those to take home. And then came the Fiesta Red. This blend is aptly named because it is fun and feisty . I think it is best served slightly chilled, and it is very reminiscent of a good Sangria. It is light and fruity and fun, perfect for the summer months ahead. It is my new favorite Virgina Wine!!! A red, I cannot believe it. Both Fiestas are at a wonderful price point for Virginia Wines….$15.
I loved the tables in the Kilaurwen tasting room. In fact, I am now on a mission to recreate them for our home.
But, back to the tasting….what a fun experience to listen to someone talk so lovingly about his craft and his family. Rarely have we had the opportunity to listen to a winemaker talk about his or her product. And it was so enlightening to do so. We learned about the grapes that went into each of his wines, the soil in which they are grown, any manipulation done one the wines were harvested. And his thoughts on the final product. And again, we learned of the family. Which wine is his granddaughters favorite….the wine he ships cases of to her in college, and about his grandsons Boy Scout troop’s camp-outs on the farm. And when the family comes to help with the entire operation. And his special excitement to have a grandson in college very nearby next year. As we were leaving, Mickey said this is what a vineyard would look like were his granddad the proprietor. And, if you knew his granddad, you would know what a compliment that is!
We took home a few fiesta’s…..but not enough to last very long. We chilled our first bottle promptly when arriving home, and it was quickly gone. They are a small operation that does not even appear to ship wine. So, it looks like we will have to make a trip back over really soon. What a unique place. Very genuine and authentic, and I know this sounds cheesy but it is true: A place full of love.
Kilaurwen Winery is only open Fridays-Sundays and Holiday Mondays from 12-5.
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