Hightop Mountain is the highest elevation in the Southern part of the SNP. In the distance, you can see Massanutten peak.
By some good fortune, the one hike we have been able to get in recently coincided with the peak of the fall foliage season. And on a day of ample golden sunshine, no less, to further highlight the glorious mountains that I love so dearly. Our goal on this hike was, of course, a summit to see the leaves; but an important secondary goal was to explore the High Top Mountain Appalachian Trail Hut.
I love the spirit of the AT, and the community it creates. Here are ‘hiking sticks’ passed from one hiker on to another.
I have written about my fascination of the Appalachian Trail and the practice of thru hiking before. And, I am currently reading my third thru-hiker memoir. (AWOL on the Appalachian Trail by David Miller) and it has peaked my interest again. At 544 miles, the Virginia section of the Appalachian Trail is the longest of the 14 states and 2,200 mile quest. Some report it to be one of the easiest sections due to the proximity of Skyline Drive, and all the amenities it has to offer in the way of housing and food resupply. But, that length also drags on, making it a grind for others.
A fun cairn along the trail.
All throughout the tail, there are systems of shelters that are placed strategically about a days walk from each other. In all of the memoirs I have read, these huts and shelters are often mentioned. In addition to providing structure to the hike, and relief from the elements, the shelters also seem to bind the hiking community together. Hikers of the AT often travel alone or in small groups on the trail….but even in the groups, they ebb and flow throughout the process. The shelters are where people meet up at night, often running into people they have not seen for many miles. Through Virginia, these shelters are known as huts, and they are three sided structures that are very primitive in nature. They are often near a spring which helps the hikers navigate the ever important need to locate water sources. And the system is a first come, first serve set-up. They vary in the size and number of people they can ‘comfortably’ accommodate to sleep. I have often read of hikers getting to the desired location, only to have the shelter already full.
Hightop Hut registry with the PATC logo.
The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club organization is responsible for the trail maintenance in part of Virginia, West Virgina, Maryland and Pennsylvania. There are 30 other such clubs along the trail that serve different locations. So many things about the AT amaze me…..the obvious being that people actually do it. But, then further the support system of the trail. That these huts exist, that trails are regularly maintained and cleared of brush and debris…..that white blazes are almost always within view of the hike. And that volunteers have painted (and continue to repaint) these blazes!) from Georgia to Maine.
Here I am with the Hightop Hut register. We really enjoyed reading the entries.
We found that as early as October 2nd, a flip flop thru hiker came through this hut. Meaning s/he is hiking the AT out of direct order, but walking it in its entirety.
This Disney-lovin’ family choose this entry from Pooh Bear as our favorite.
At each hut, there is a trail register where anyone who passes through can post an entry. Through hikers use this as a way to keep up with what is going on the trail and leaving messages for others who follow. Thru hikers almost always use their ‘trail name’, which is their second identity/alter ego on the trail. (In the book I am currently reading, the hiker’s name is AWOL because he took a leave of absence from his work and life to do the trail). Sometimes they start out knowing what their names will be, and sometimes their names are awarded to them based on happenings on the trail. Either way, those names stick, and it is how they are referenced on the AT. And those names are how they log their entries into the hut registries. When I say I wanted to explore the AT Hut; really I was mostly looking forward to reading some of the entries in the trail registry. We found a lot of cool entries from all kinds of people and groups.
It was somewhat of a race to finish this hike before dark, but as always, Mickey kept us on track!
In researching this hike, I found conflicting reports which translated into a little confusion on the hike. I saw reports of different mile marker starting points, but decided to go with parking at the one which shared the hike’s name, thinking that was a no-brainer. So, we parked at the hightop summit parking lot at MM 66.5 and headed up the trail. We had read that it was 1.7 miles to the overlook, and that the AT shelter was a mere .1 miles from the trail. Well, that is true if you park at the ROACH GAP parking lot, 3 miles up Skyline Drive. Turns out there are 3 ways to get to High top mountain peak. The two ways I mentioned, and a fire road that leads right into the AT Hut. I would recommended the one that starts at ROACH parking lot. Because if not, then it is almost an extra mile to the AT hut. And, I think checking out an AT hut is well worth your time. Since that was a main priority of mine, we ended tacking on about a mile and a half extra to this hike. Which, in the end turned out fine. But, we got a later than planned start that afternoon, which kept us racing the sunset that day, so as to not be caught in the dark.
Since we started in the wrong spot for our goals, our impression of this hike is a little skewed towards not liking it. I spent the entire time being annoyed at not coming across the hut at the proper point, and JJ was especially dismayed by the added length to the hike when he was not prepared to go that far. But, we were well rewarded for our efforts when we got to the top. The summit view beats about any hike we have ever done, made all the more glorious with the fall coloring. And, I got one of my most favorite family hiking pictures ever in this spot (so in the end, Hightop Summit hike was well worth it. )
So, boiled down, here is the info you can really use in hiking Hightop Summit: Both options are reported to be near mirror images of each other. Most things you read will say 1.7 to the top from either spot, with about 900 feet climb. Billy got 2.1 from the Hightop Parking lot option. It was a mid-level challenging hike. The elevation gain is substantial, but the trail is not especially rocky….and there are a few flat parts in between to bring the heart rate down. I would say the way we went almost bordered on boring in terms of what was in our vision. But, the summit made it all worthwhile. Both options to start are in close proximity of the Swift Run Gap Entrance to Skyline Drive.
And to finish, a few pics of the shelter, and its spring, and J-Wow getting a little refreshment (humans need to treat any water from the springs before they can drink. Yet another ‘process’ thru-hikers must mater on the AT:
The Hightop hut
Ratings ( 2.9 out of 5 for High Top Summit
Minnie: 3.5 – Well worth it for the view and the hut…..but there are a lot better hikes!
Mickey: 2.5 – Less than average. But, I loved the view at the top.
Billy: 3- I liked the hut. I liked reading the entries in the registry.
JJ: 2 – The hut was really cool, but the rest of it was not.
J:Wow: 3.5- Not my favorite hike, but I loved being on the trail with my pack!
So, not on our favorites list (again, probably skewed by the misdirection)……but oh what a glorious day the Lord did make! I have dubbed this the fall of golden rod and burnt sienna (get out your crayola boxes and compare the colors!)
virginiavinesandtrails 